In today’s skincare debate, the shift is clear: the focus is no longer on the single “trending” ingredient, but on the skin’s ability to maintain its own balance. Formulations, routines, and approaches are evolving toward a scientific, performance-driven perspective.
On this topic, our Scientific Director, Prof. Paola Perugini, contributed with the article “Across the Barrier, the New Skin Grammar”, published in the March 2026 issue of Cosmopolo.
An authoritative perspective: beyond ingredients, toward functional systems
A key message clearly emerges: there is no such thing as a “future ingredient,” but rather functional synergies of actives designed to work in an integrated way. The focus shifts to the skin barrier and the skin’s ability to maintain optimal conditions without disrupting microbiota balance. “Today’s keywords are respect and barrier”: a concise synthesis reflecting a formulation approach grounded in research, testing, and validation..
From research to ritual: skincare as a tested system
This perspective translates into a concrete evolution of cosmetic routines.
The “barrier-centric” approach redefines the daily ritual, which becomes:
- adaptive and personalized
- oriented toward maintaining skin balance
- built on scientific foundations rather than random layering logic
Effective skincare is the result of formulation science combined with cosmetic testing.
Conscious use and the central role of cleansing
The interview also highlights the importance of mindful product use.
The combination and sequencing of actives, as well as seasonality and application timing, influence both efficacy and tolerability. Within this balance, one step remains essential: cleansing, the fundamental base to ensure the effectiveness of any subsequent treatment and to preserve the integrity of the skin barrier.
Innovation and future perspectives
Cosmetic development is moving toward increasingly integrated models, where technology and data will enable advanced personalization of routines.
